Feliz 1 de Enero!

A shop on Obispo Street last January while in Havana. The street has changed dramatically since I was last there (5 years earlier). Many more shops, lots of them selling souvenirs and other kitschy items. A quick survey indicated almost all of it was manufactured in China. It's then not a lot different than Myrtle Beach or Gatlinburg. While we there a friend purchased her own house. She had saved for 12 years and got enough together to make the purchase. Things are slowly changing, the government has gotten much more active in the micro management of the tourist industry. Perhaps good for them, but those who were trying to work independently are being effectively squeezed out of business.

Three Guys Passing Time

Sitting on the door stoop and watching life go by is an interesting way to pass time in Havana.  All three of these guys were friendly and open to having a photo made. The one in the middle was the most interested and looked directly at the camera. These old carved doors are seen commonly in Habana Centro and Habana Vieja. One hopes that they are preserved insofar as possible as these areas are slowly restored. It is a shame that the care of so many of these things has been so limited and desultory. Often one hears the government being criticized for putting too many of its resources into military things and not rebuilding or maintaining the country. I suppose that cuts several ways and it depends where you start since many governments other than that of Cuba leave themselves open to the same criticism.

Affordable Care--Finally

Today on the announcement of the Supreme Court decision upholding the Affordable Care Act's constitutionality, I dug back in the files for this image. I made this photo while visiting the Cardiovascular Center in Vedado in 2003. This is a cardiologist and a lab technician performing a coronary angiogram in the cardiac catheterization laboratory there. I am a retired cardiologist who did such procedures in my career and I had the privilege of meeting one of the leaders of this facility in Havana. The capabilities of the physicians in Cuba were superb, the specialty training had been done in a hospital in Spain. I spent the better part of a day visiting and talking shop with many of the doctors who worked there. The doctors major complaint was the scarcity of information. They all felt that it was difficult to stay abreast of advances in their field of specialization. Almost all of their supplies were cleaned and re-used. In more advanced countries, most all of the supplies and instruments are disposable. Catheters and other things were cleansed, sterilized and re-used. The time to dispose of something was when it no longer worked. In spite of these shortcomings people were getting good care and it did not cost them anything. The availability of good front line care and public health has benefited the people in lessening disease and it reduces the cost of health care by avoiding unnecessary procedures. There are still many scarcities though and now there are some costs for drugs and things like that. Still the people can find a clinic and a provider anytime and can get some sort of treatment. It is an interesting contrast to the US system, like in most things the best way lies somewhere between the two....and, it is possible  to provide everyone with health care regardless of their ability to pay.

Roberto

The first time I met Roberto he was dressed in all white and sitting in the lobby of the Ambos Mundos hotel. He had been working as a guide for various people attending a workshop being done in Cuba by the Maine Photographic Workshops. He spoke very good English, but was concerned that the workshops were ending up and his work was running out. He perked up when I told him we were going to be around for the next week and could use a guide for some of those days. Over the years we have continued our friendship and he has helped me many times when I was in Cuba. He has helped plan road trips to other cities, functioned as a driver, assisted with renting vehicles, and keeping track of university students when I brought them to Cuba for educational workshops. We have gone to Santeria functions, sacrifices, and Folkloric dances that were produced by his late wife Maria. He has grown older, wiser, and the problems of living in Cuba have not been easily overcome although he has done that so far. The present effort to keep all the tourism under the control of the government run tourist agencies has made it more difficult for independents like Roberto. He now speaks four languages and maintains his government license as a guide and translator but life is still difficult. Anyone thinking of hiring a guide should contact me and I'll hook you up with him.

Cab Driver

This is the first photo I made in Cuba this past December, 2011. It may well be the best. This man ended up being our driver for multiple trips. He never missed a turn even though he only has one eye. He was typical of what one encounters in Cuba among the people-intelligent, kind, helpful, and interesting. Yes, he is a state employee; he has less freedom than those in many other places and that is a very bad situation. On the other hand he is Cuban and he loves his country. Unlike most cabbies in New York city he spoke English! and smelled OK. There are many instances that can be used to illustrate the oppressive nature of the Cuban government. Unfortunately there are as many or more instances of oppression that can be cited to prove the oppressive number of both the state and federal governments in our country-the USA. Neither Cuba nor the United States has a lot of room to talk re: human rights these days. It is mostly the pot calling the kettle black in the disputes between the two. And, just because sanctions seem to be working in Iran to some extent, it is not likely that similar tactics will work in Cuba where the USA has a century or more of supporting the wrong side.

Cathederal San Lazaro

Lazaro is the saint for the infirm  and the downtrodden. This beautiful small cathedral is about 15 miles from Havana just past Boyeros. The best day to visit is on Saturday for there are many more people and their are vendors selling all sorts of things plus a small market. When we went the entire church was decorated for Christmas. Many were there, praying, lighting candles, and visiting. It was not a somber atmosphere at all, and each time I've visited, I'm struck that it seems a more joyful place than many other cathedrals which are very quite and almost tomb-like in their overwhelming silence. We were respectful in making photos and the people did not seem to mind at all.

Most of the Cuban people are kind and friendly toward US citizens. They see the arguments at a higher governmental level and not at a personal level. One of the students wrote in their evaluation of the trip:

“It has given me a whole new insight on the impact of the trade embargo with Cuba […], it helped me to reevaluate everything that I had originally accepted as facts of life and to see how I could change things.”

I think that accomplishing this is the purpose of educational travel. It helps everyone.

 

Lennon Park

This is a pretty cool place. It was an adventure getting to the right place. The cab driver assured us he knew where to take us and we ended up in a dump of a park, Lenin Park, really not well kept. After more explaining and calming him down we got the driver to understand the name of the place and the address. Se we went there, fortunately he was noble enough not to charge us for the boondoggle run. The statue of John L is maybe a tad larger than life size. There is an elderly attendant that stands there and holds the glasses. He puts them on when a person comes up to the statue. Apparently the glasses were regularly stolen and workers are easy to come by in Cuba. The park is well kept by Cuban standards. Suppose that we all got along, Imagine that. Wouldn't life be wonderful.

LOOK 3

I am just back from Charlottesville VA and the LOOK3 Festival of the Photo. There were many wonderful photographers, photos, and speakers. Did a two day workshop with Eugene Richards on photographing people. My photos were an unmitigated disaster, but I learned a lot. The class was full of terrific people and everyone was mutually supportive. Some of the work was wonderful, some not so hot. It was good to have all skill levels with everyone being truly interested in each others work. I came home much more committed to getting what work I have done better organized, processed properly, and maybe see about doing a couple of Blurb books this summer. I got a great deal out of the review of Lightroom 4.1 that Julianne Kost did for Adobe. My good buddy Ira rode his new BMW bike from Brooklyn; I have heard from him and he survived the return yesterday.  The chance to see Stanley Greene, Donna Ferrato, and Alex Webb be interviewed and talk about their photographic lives was a gift. Not only these masters, but there were several upcoming Masters that showed work as well. These included Lynsey Addario's conflict photography, Hank Willis Thomas work, Mitch Dobrowner's images of tornadoes, and a truly fascinating series of photos of sounds. Several good parties, saw some old friends, and today feel really drained. I guess my age is beginning to show?

Tires repaired

There are poncheras dotted all over Central Havana. The condition of the streets and even most of the main roads is such that tires are frequently punctured or burst by pot holes. I really liked both the colors and composition of this shop front. In many instances the work is done on the side of the street and drivers just maneuver around the minor obstruction.

Flower Sellers in Habana Vieja

These ladies are selling fresh cut flowers on the street. They reminded me of the Flower Sellers who used to sell on Franklin Street in Chapel Hill. The old car-Plymouth or Dodge- is the color of a yellow cab. I recall my family having a Plymouth Cranbrook when I was a child. Our car was black. For whatever reason this is a sort of "universal" snapshot that reminds me of lots of things from childhood and youth. I am looking forward to being in Havana later this year.

Havana Made for Walking!

The three main and least costly modes of transportation in Havana are shown here-the Camello bus called such because of its double humps, the bicitaxi, and the most reliable: one's feet. Fortunately Havana is a relatively flat city so hills are not so bad. It does have dogs tho' and one needs to be observant where they step. It is an easy city to negotiate with a fairly simpler lay-out, and it is like most big cities made for walking. Good and comfortable shoes are a must. Don't worry about your new running shoes labeling you as a tourist, everyone will know that right away. Worry more that they will pinch as you break them in on your trip. Style is not much of a concern day to day in Havana, certainly not near so much as is comfort.

Che

Sunset at the Ministerio del Interior. This is one of the many places bedecked with an image of Ché. His image is facing the statue of José Marti across the Plaza de Revolucion. I had the good fortune to meet both Korda and Corrales while they were still active, but aging gracefully--like me, I might add. One of the highlights of my life was having Korda give a personal tour of a group of his photos that were up in a small gallery at the Fotateca during the big exhibition of Burt Glinn's work. Name dropping? You betcha! This is a completely un-retouched digital image and I like the golden warmth of the sunset. I have collected images of Ché while traveling. Clearly he is found mainly on tee shirts-France, Italy, Spain, and Mexico are places I have seen him.

Graffiti in Cuba

I understand that many people object to graffiti. It is by definition something done illicitly. I however like it. I think sometimes it is just vandalism or gang tagging, but other times it is in the spirit of protest or a budding young artist saying "Hey look at me!" This was photographed near Callejon de Hamel where most of the walls are painted with symbols derived from Santeria so perhaps a slight precedent has been set. When the paintings of all the political images, slogans, and portraits of martyrs are considered I realize that paint like everything else is in very short supply!

Mondrian doesn't live here

There are wonderful combinations of wrought iron doors, grills, and window dressings every direction one turns. It is easy to realize the beauty that was once Havana, but now has fallen into disrepair due to neglect. I have been looking at the work of photographers in the US who are photographing the decay and deterioration of abandoned stores, factories, and homes in locations such as Detroit and Cleveland. It is clear from all that failed economic policies, lack of meaningful employment, and no housing market has contributed in both places under totally different types of government. Both communism and capitalism have failed their respective citizens. Maybe greed, zeal for power, and inability to check into reality are harmful regardless of one's core belief system.

"I had to go back to the island"--Thanks, Leon.

This is my friend John Scarlata, photographing one afternoon in Habana Centro. John died about 15 months ago of a terrible cancer. He was brave to the last. Last night I was part of a discussion that was held to honor him and his photos. He accompanied our student workshops twice and did a lot of beautiful work while in Havana. It was part of the retrospective currently being exhibited at the Turchin Center on the campus at Appalachian State University. He would be excited to know that we are going to be back in Havana in December and January this year.

Ché gets around-here in Paris

This young woman was at a protest in Paris shortly after the bombing of Iraq started 5 years ago. French students require very little in the way of a cause to have a demonstration. They are amazingly orderly, the gendarmes are out to maintain calm and the crowd is able to make its point. They were closing a significant portion of the St. Germain de Pres every afternoon during the week in March that I was there. I doubt that would happen these days in the US-close down a major street for an anti-war protest. I have been struck by how often I encounter images of Ché Guevara in other parts of the world than Cuba. He has become a sort of international symbol of protest and revolution. Man people regard him as as butcher, others as as brilliant strategist, and some as a confused young man enamored of his impossible idealism. Whatever, and he may have been all three of these plus much more, no one can deny but what he was an interesting person.

Feria des Artesanas

Early in the morning one can hear the grinding sound of steel or wooden wheels rolling on the cobblestones. This is the artisans and the craftspeople rolling out their wares to get them to the Feria des Artesanas for the opening of that spectacle. It is held 4-5 days a week, the number of days was decreased as it became a more successful economic enterprise. Here one can purchase surprisingly good local arts and crafts at ridiculously low prices. As with all things involving Cubans and tourists, one can also get totally ripped off. The fair is interesting, colorful, and full of energy. Even if you don't find a deal it is fun. I spoke to one young man who was making small paintings and then selling them for $5 a piece. I asked him if that wasn't a very low price. He spoke perfect English, told me that he was an architect. He was required to work some number of years in return for his education, but then he quite architecture to take up painting. He typically sold 3-4 paintings a day. He was affluent from his art, considering his salary as an architect had been $15/month. This is the failure of the revolution and the system--the totally unrealistic economic situation imposed on the people. I have another friend who sells her photos for $200 a piece. One sale and she is  more than six months ahead when compared to her old teachers' salary. These things must change. The people can't be kept in the dark forever. Everybody likes to get some new shoes once in awhile. 

Folkloric Dancers

One of my friends, Maria, is a dancer and a dance instructor. She teaches children and teenagers folk dancing. Most of the dance is African in origin and pertains to her faith, Santeria. She had organized a recital in a house that was being used as a community center in one of the many poor suburbs of Havana. My students and I   were invited and we hired a van and went there late one afternoon. It started inside the house, on the second floor, but the crowd grew too large for the room and the dance was moved out into the street. Maria's son Ellington and her jazz loving husband Roberto provided the music by playing a set of bongo drums and thumping on a wooden box-the latter was a great instrument one sat on it and then just beat the side with both hands. The children were enthusiastic and some of them were quite talented. I thought about some of the times I had been to dance recitals with my children in the US. I realized that even under the thumb of an oppressive government people will find a way to not only have fun, but to help their children enjoy a bit of life. 

Musicians at Plaza Armas

One morning I walked up to Plaza Armas. There was some form of ceremony where it seemed police cadets were being recognized. There was a band playing martial music and the cadets were spiffy in their uniforms. I took a few photos and then wandered about the plaza. At the far end of the Plaza, away from the ceremony, sat these two musicians.  I struck up a conversation with them and asked if I might take their photograph. They said sure. Everyone was in a good mood, the weather was nice, it was a fine morning, and there were a moderate number of people walking and talking. I took a couple of shots, this is one of them. Then from nowhere that I could see came a small police car. Out leapt two uniformed officers who immediately approached the musicians and accused them of disturbing the ceremony. They were told to stand and handcuffs were produced, I protested and told the cops that I was the culprit. Since I was a gringo tourist, I was not likely to get arrested. The guitar player told me it was OK and to be quiet. The two musicians were then herded into the back seat of the police car and driven away. I don't think I have ever felt as bad and disgusted with myself as I did then. I felt awful. I had innocently caused these men to play their instruments, and the soft music that could not have possibly been heard up near the ceremony was enough to get them arrested. I was later told that they would be let go, but would be "written up." An example of the nearness of the law in all of its unreasonable and very intimidating power of the man on the street in Cuba. I have seen young men who were advertising their mother's kitchen as a place to eat arrested when they approached tourists. I barely escaped arrest for riding in a bici-taxi once. unbeknownst to me, the bicis had been relegated to being cheap transport for Cuban citizens and were not for the tourists. I spent an hour or more being harangued and having my "papers checked." The poor driver was trembling. I had no idea what a terrible position I had put him in--he could give me a ride or be rude to a tourist-he truly had a no win situation. All of this just hassle and intimidate. Enhance the power of the cops and the fear of the common man.

There are several photographers who operate in front of the Capitolio. They take your picture and then process it inside the big box of their camera. This is a traditional business that dates back to way before the Revolution. As such it is a tourist dependent business. Tourism is the island's major source of income these days. Most of the tourists come from Europe or S. America. The tourism was described for me once as "ideal for the budget-minded tourist." One of the unfortunate aspects of the local economy no doubt related to its paternalistic basis is very poor service. In some restaurants the wait staff will simply stand about, chatting and ignoring their customers. In  one totally tourist directed Italian restaurant I ordered fettucini alfredo. Forty five minute later I was told, "The fettucini, it is over. Now, we have spaghetti alfredo." The photographers provide much better service.