Old and New--Happening in Cuba

The photo illustrates the changes and the conflicts that Cuba faces. The new modern double bus in front of the shabby, run down buildings with tattered clothes hanging out to dry. This contrast of the old with the new was made even more dramatic this past Sunday when Raul Castro announced that this term would be his last. It is a five yer term and it is not clear that he will survive until 2018 or that he will not have to join Pope Benedict in cloistered retirement. 

Miguel Díaz-Canel Bermúdez was named second in command and presumably first in line of succession as leader. Already the Cuban American contingent is complaining that this is not democracy but a perpetuation of the dictatorial socialist regime. That seems fairly obvious and also predictable. There will be many firsts though-a middle aged leader-not a wet behind the ears amateur as there was post Revolution, and not some old stodgy Revolutionary as there has been mostly ever since. Canel Bermúdez is an engineer, presumably he understands how to make things work, he has served his obligatory time in the military, and he is from an area of Cuba that was a hot bed of the resistance to the status quo during the Revolution. This will be the first time since 1959 that a Castro has not been in charge! Raul has shown that he is more moderate than Fidel although not so much or so fast as to satisfy the impatience of the anti-Castro contingent. Remember this group is well represented in the more rightward wings of our own Republican party which seems dedicated to nothing changing, ever. So they are already leading a confusing life (see Rubio, Marco). Still when you see the nice new Chinese bus that has replaced the noxious, uncomfortable camellos of the recent past, there is a less than subtle sign of forward movement.

Senators Talk with Castro!

Big news this week! US senators visit Cuba and meet with President Raul Castro. The ostensible goal is to work for the release of Alan Gross, American citizen who was arrested in Cuba when discovered to be bringing in sensitive electronic communications equipment to assist a democracy promoting program of USAID. In short he broke Cuban law and was arrested. The senators ate at an "upscale restaurant in Old Havana," always a dicey thing to do. In spite of all the difficulties with Cuba and our relationship with the country, the US is now the second largest source of tourists ranking just behind Canada. Food sales to Cuba increased by $100 million, making the US one of Cuba's top ten trading partners. Colonel Lawrence Wilkerson, Colin Powell's assistant Secretary of State once referred to the economic blockade of Cuba as America's dumbest foreign policy ever. So much of the issue with Cuba has to do with angling to get the Cuban Vote in America, a small part of the Latino vote that has traditionally gone to the Republicans until recently. Raul has been more open to allowing Cubans to purchase homes and cars and things like that. Last hear when I was in Havana a good friend of mine bought her first house. It was a huge step up for her and her family, all of whom had been living in a one room efficiency apartment for years. Working as a photographic assistant and guide she had amassed $15,000 dollars to make the purchase. That's a veritable fortune for the average Cuban citizen.

Further evidence of the foolishness toward Cuba was contained in a statement from Cuban diplomats who pointed out that "even North Korea, which earned global condemnation when it conducted an underground nuclear test earlier this month, is not on the terror sponsor list."(Paul Haven, Associated Press) The most dangerous thing in Cuba are the piles of rotting mangoes on the corners when they fail to collect the garbage on time! With large enough catapults they could wreak havoc on South Beach!

La Vida en la Calle

Life transpires in the street in Havana. In the morning people stand in their doorways having coffee, stand in small groups talking and planning their day, and some are walking their children to school. A few might even be going to work. In Habana Centro the buildings are dilapidated, the stairways are dirty and most of the plaster has fallen off, and often they are dark. Sometimes the contradiction in technology and color is striking. Here there is this bright new motor bike almost certainly of Chinese origin, the young guys in their brightly colored clothing, the new athletic shoes (Nikes?), and the dilapidated building, and the mix in skin tone/color that is the soul of Cuba. Life is incrementally getting better, but much of the country's infra-structure and many of its buildings are beyond salvage.  Nonetheless the closeness of the neighborhoods makes for strong relationships and a lot of mutual concern, not a bad thing. Now if the government's social arms can get enough resources to improve things further for the people the country will be on the road to a better life.

A Poor Country

Many of the buildings along the Prado have been abandoned. They are not maintained at all. The columns that support them are weathered, damaged, and in a general state of disrepair. Some of the area looks more like the scenes of rubble from the recent wars in the middle east; just without the rubble, gore, and unexploded weapons.  There are still people who walk along the way and nearby are excellent hotels and restaurants. Havana is a constant surprise, it changes dramatically from one block to the next. This photo made from Parque Central which is full of people talking, families out and about, and kids on their skate boards and roller blades. Sadness lies in the fact that no matter how nice or good the people seem (and they are), it is not possible to escape the omnipresent sense of poverty and hopelessness that pervades the society.

Ponchera--24 Hora

These sorts of small independent very small businesses are all over the city of Havana as well as being frequent;y seen in the country side. I was attracted to this one by the colors, the shapes of the various elements in the photo and how it all worked together as if it had been purposely painted or staged. Some are just set up in the street with no shop at all, others have an awning or small umbrella in the edge of the street just outside their front door. The number of old cars, the number of  potholes and the fast driving all work together to make this a fairly successful venture for most tire repair people.

Along the park at Prado, so called "Central Park," there are several fallen in, decrepit, crumbling buildings. Most are fenced in and the fences have provided canvases for some of Havana's most talented graffiti artists. It provides a very colorful and abstract feel to the otherwise calm and restful environment. There are many benches along the way and the park is a great place to relax, meet people, and watch kids play. If so inclined, one can even enjoy some post-modern art.www.pacmclaurin.com

Both of these portrait shots were made outside the Cathedral in Regla. It was a bright, crisp morning and many people were stirring about. I like both of these images because of the intensity that shows in the profiles of the faces. According to Carl Sandburg, "The real story is in the faces." Older people have expressive faces. One can see the lines of worry, the scars of experience, and often the kindness within. It is infrequent that a person in Cuba will refuse to let you make their picture.  I purchased a portrait once in an art gallery in Richmond VA. Later I met the person who had posed for the portrait and she asked why I bought it. I told her, "I liked it and I wanted it." "Why,' was the response, 'You don't know me?" I simply repeated,  "I liked it and I wanted it." The only reason I know of to purchase art.