Scooter

Throughout the world the desire of kids to play is overwhelming. They are resourceful, creative, andf will work very hard to make a toy or something to play with. I have helped Cuban boys wrap tape into a ball so that they can then play stickball in the street. These guys are even more inventive and mechanically talented. They are building their own "blade". It is made from scraps of lumber they have found and old roller skate parts. The typical child in Cuba is certainly not spoiled by excess nor do they grow up as part of a consumer society. They do like to play, they play outside in the sun and heat, and they are resourceful in creating their playthings. I was fascinated by the number of games and the hours spent by the boys in the neighborhood where I stayed in Havana when I brought them a simple rubber ball to play with-it was amazing how thrilled they were.

Tropicana, 2000

This was a beautiful night-warm, slight breeze, not too humid. We went to the Tropicana and this picture of the dancers in the smoke was probably more luck than anything else. The Tropicana is probably the one single constant that has existed in Havana from back in the 1940s until the present. While the cost of admission is well beyond the reach of most Cubans, there are always plenty of visitors and upper class Cubans who are present to cheer on the dancers and musicians.

Jinetera with tattoo

This young woman with several of here friends sat down at my table at Casa Marina in H. Vieja one hot afternoon. I don't think they saw me as a prospect for anythng more than a cool drink. I obligingly sprang for a Fanta orange for all three of them. They enjoyed playing with my camera. I told them they must pose for pictures in return for the orange soda. This gal was very pround of the sunburst tattooed around her belly button. All of them were clean, nice, and reasonably well educated. Having fun is as much of these girls agenda as is being a working prostitute. For many the sex scene in Havana is more like the singles bar scene in the states than the street hooker scene that occurs in US cities.

Smoke on the Stairs

Many of the buildings of Havana Vieja have dark, somewhat foreboding stairs wells just inside their doors. Often they are dark near the street, but rise up toward light coming in from open windows or courtyards on the second level. Many people spend much of their social life in these dark, cool stair wells. It is a chance to remain cool, visit neighbors, and let children play together on the ground level. Here, Yunieski has stopped to relax with a smoke before heading back out to the hot, sunshine of the street.

Woman on Stairs

I made a series of these sort of pictures in 2004 while in Cuba. I obtained the use of several very old, decrepit buildings in Habana Vieja, hired several models, and had an excellent assistant. I like the beauty suggested by this woman in the midst of the old surroundings. It sort of represents an existential view that life is pretty much what you make of it and no one really deserves more than a chance to try to make something out of it.

Ancon Beach

This cabana is the bar on the beach at the Ancon Hotel near Trinidad. The ocean is warm, the beach is nice, and the hotel is fairly nice by Cuban standards. Both the Ancon and the Costa Sur Hotels were constructed during the Soviet days and subsequently renovated. Beach vacations were used to reward workers. They certainly are not as luxurious as the hotels at Varadero, but do provide a nice and economical beach trip. Since many of the tourists in Cuba are sort of the budget minded European or South American tourists, these beaches are popular during the main season.

Shave and a Hair Cut, 2 Pesos

There are many old traditional barber shops in Havana. They are meeting places, parlors for conversation, and dominos just like they are in the USA. A lot of sports and a little bit of politics get discussed as well. Many of those discussions get too animated and loud for a barber shop. Discussing things like that in close proximity to straight razors is not a particularly good idea. Most are very clean. The barbers wear clean starched smocks, and it is a genuinely professional atmosphere. One of the more humane and meaningful things about the neighborhood societies that exist throughout the city.

This gentleman lives across the street from where we usually stay in Havana. He sells old currency, post cards, and a few old magazines. He is sort of the neighborhood watch guy I suppose. He is always in his doorway, behind a little table upon which he spreads his merchandise, and is quite friendly. Many people have little streetside businesses like this. Some refill lighters with insecticides using the flammable properties of the propellant. Others sell coffee or juice, some sell cookies, some repair clothes or shoes. Really just about anything to eke out a little more money to put toward survival.

Caneys and Rafael

I met these two guys in Santiago. They told me that they were both "clowns". They had retired from a circus and now worked only at birthday parties and affairs like that, held mainly for children. I had never encountered a circus in Cuba and since I still haven't, so I don't know if they were joshing me or not. Both were extremely affable and more than willing to have me make some photos of them. Circus or not, it was fun to meet and photograph them and made for a good day.

Pescadoros

I am not sure if that is really a word, but it is an apt description of these fellows who go "deep-sea fishing" spending the night at sea in hopes of a good catch. They have crafted rafts from large Styrofoam containers and old lumber. These are powered by legs and swim fins of the fishermen. They typically leave and return with the tide, almost all staying out 18-30 hours. They carry a bottle of rum, some food, water, and a big hat to protect them from the sun. Although this seems like a dangerous profession to me, those I have talked with are happy and they enjoy their work. All hope to make a good catch of good eating, tasty fish that will be sold to the better restaurants. This another of the fascinating ways the Cubans have adapted to their lives and hardships.

Pneumatico

I have been away for the past week. This photo, titled "Pneumatico," shows a young fisherman, his fishing vessel (the large inner tube), and his girl friend who is welcoming him back from his day at sea fishing. This is a common sight. One can stand at the point where the ocean and the Bahia meet and watch the young men in their inner tubes with swim fins to propel them head out toward the horizon for a day's fishing. They usually have a good catch for these are productive fishing waters. Some will go in the afternoon and remain out at sea overnight which is a cooler way to go fishing.

Jaguey

These beautiful trees are all about in Havana. This one is in the park along Avenida Cinco in Miramar. That is a nice place to walk. Many nice buildings are there and a lot of the middle and upper middle class Cubans have houses in this area. It is also the embassy areas and some homes have been taken over as government agencies and offices. The roots of the Jaguey trees grow up in the air so that the tree rests upon its roots way up above the ground. I always ask my students to figure out how they plant these trees that require above ground roots. I am not sure I know, either.

Along the Malecon

Probably the major attraction in Havana is the Malecon. This broad boulevard sweeps along the sea wall. The water and foam from breaking waves blows and sometimes flows over the wall. People fish along there, young folks hang out at night and party, families walk along in the afternoon, and often one sees some person standing looking at the sea. I wonder at them, are they looking at the sea or are they looking at Florida and their friends and family who are there?

Print Gallery

This attractive woman was the gallery manager at the graphics workshop immediately adjacent to the Catederal. In this workshop many printmakers work. Some are students. There is a gallery upstairs where prints are sold. One can purchase original art in this gallery for quite low prices. It is interesting to walk through the large area where the artists are at work and talk to them about what they are doing. These sorts of activities abound in Havana which in many regards is no different from other medium to large cities.

Cross

Sometimes the old lumber used to board up the falling in buildings makes unusual shapes. I thought this made a perfect cross. This building was along the malecon. There many buildings are being restored, even if the pace is quite slow. Most of the buildings along there show the wear and tear associated with being on the seafront and exposed to the tropical storms that come each summer and fall.

Mercado

Another photo from the market. This attractive young woman is doing a brisk business in her vegetables and fruit. Most people are happy to smile and let you make their picture. I always spend at least one afternoon in this market when I visit. It is always a hotbed of humanity-the laughter, music, smells, chatter of conversation, and the happiness that pervades is uplifting. I received an email last night. One of my friends, Ramon, just received a national award. Ramon was awarded the National Prize "Reason For Being" by the Alejo Carpentier Foundation for the book "Dictionary of Cuban Photography". Congratulations to him, he is as tireless intellectual who is a genuine polymath.

Eat mor' chikn

This chicken was ruling the roost one day in the large market, the "Free Market" at Quatro Caminos in Cerro. That is a terrific place to visit. It is full of people, food, all sorts of vegetables and fruit. Upstairs is the meat market which is sort of bloody for vegetarians to visit. There are lots of friendly people there. Things may be difficult in Cuba, but the people do seem to be able to stay friendly, helpful, and open. Outside the street is busy, nearby are several shops that sell trinkets and other paraphernalia for Santeria practitioners. This is not much of a tourist area so there are few guys on the street selling cigars, etc.

80-60-40

These three gentlemen were sitting out on the curb in the small fishing village just outside Havana that is named Baracoa, not to be confused with the more famous Baracoa on the eastern tip of the country. This was a quaint village with many people lingering about, not many seemed to have jobs to go to. Interestingly these three represent three generations of the same family-grandfather, father, and son. This sort of multi-generational living and socializing arrangement is very common. In almost all homes one encounters at least three generations living together in apparent harmony. That is a nice thing.

Rosie

This is Rosie. She was across the street from the little boy below. She was much more animated, drinking her milk, and playing with this old bent piece of metal tubing. I met her Mom and her Dad. I took several pictures, and dropped by a few days later with some soap, Bic pens, pads, and a few Bic lighters. Rosie is more like the majority of the young kids, they do get their rations, but there is still a chronic shortage of food. I know some Moms who nurse their toddlers, in their minds it is more efficient for the mother to eat and the child to nurse. This seems to defy the law of conservation of matter and energy in my view, but I admit, I can see the logic in their thinking.

Soy Cuba

This poor little fellow was in the street one afternoon in Habana Vieja. He was just standing there as a couple of other kids played. They were much more energetic. This child has a swollen belly, swollen ankles and is in the early stages of malnutrition. I suspect some one else is getting his ration of milk and meat. I realized that in spite of universal access to various services, you can't make all the people responsible and caring, no matter what you do. Unfortunately many people go to bed hungry in Cuba each night. I have had many people-Cubans and otherwise-argue with me on this point.
Again, an issue where the predominant shade is gray-not black or white.