Que Bolá? A series of Cuba photos with comments

Flower Sellers in Habana Vieja

2011-12-14T07:11:00.000-08:00

These ladies are selling fresh cut flowers on the street. They reminded me of the Flower Sellers who used to sell on Franklin Street in Chapel Hill. The old car-Plymouth or Dodge- is the color of a yellow cab. I recall my family having a Plymouth Cranbrook when I was a child. Our car was black. For whatever reason this is a sort of "universal" snapshot that reminds me of lots of things from childhood and youth. I am looking forward to being in Havana later this year.

Havana Made for Walking!

2011-11-24T06:23:00.001-08:00

The three main and least costly modes of transportation in Havana are shown here-the Camello bus called such because of its double humps, the bicitaxi, and the most reliable: one's feet. Fortunately Havana is a relatively flat city so hills are not so bad. It does have dogs tho' and one needs to be observant where they step. It is an easy city to negotiate with a fairly simpler lay-out, and it is like most big cities made for walking. Good and comfortable shoes are a must. Don't worry about your new running shoes labeling you as a tourist, everyone will know that right away. Worry more that they will pinch as you break them in on your trip. Style is not much of a concern day to day in Havana, certainly not near so much as is comfort.

Che

2011-11-18T13:11:00.001-08:00

Sunset at the Ministerio del Interior. This is one of the many places bedecked with an image of Ché. His image is facing the statue of José Marti across the Plaza de Revolucion. I had the good fortune to meet both Korda and Corrales while they were still active, but aging gracefully--like me, I might add. One of the highlights of my life was having Korda give a personal tour of a group of his photos that were up in a small gallery at the Fotateca during the big exhibition of Burt Glinn's work. Name dropping? You betcha! This is a completely un-retouched digital image and I like the golden warmth of the sunset. I have collected images of Ché while traveling. Clearly he is found mainly on tee shirts-France, Italy, Spain, and Mexico are places I have seen him.

Graffiti in Cuba

2011-11-13T06:44:00.000-08:00

I understand that many people object to graffiti. It is by definition something done illicitly. I however like it. I think sometimes it is just vandalism or gang tagging, but other times it is in the spirit of protest or a budding young artist saying "Hey look at me!" This was photographed near Callejon de Hamel where most of the walls are painted with symbols derived from Santeria so perhaps a slight precedent has been set. When the paintings of all the political images, slogans, and portraits of martyrs are considered I realize that paint like everything else is in very short supply!

Mondrian doesn't live here

2011-11-06T11:54:00.001-08:00

There are wonderful combinations of wrought iron doors, grills, and window dressings every direction one turns. It is easy to realize the beauty that was once Havana, but now has fallen into disrepair due to neglect. I have been looking at the work of photographers in the US who are photographing the decay and deterioration of abandoned stores, factories, and homes in locations such as Detroit and Cleveland. It is clear from all that failed economic policies, lack of meaningful employment, and no housing market has contributed in both places under totally different types of government. Both communism and capitalism have failed their respective citizens. Maybe greed, zeal for power, and inability to check into reality are harmful regardless of one's core belief system.

"I had to go back to the island"--Thanks, Leon.

2011-11-04T13:05:00.000-07:00

This is my friend John Scarlata, photographing one afternoon in Habana Centro. John died about 15 months ago of a terrible cancer. He was brave to the last. Last night I was part of a discussion that was held to honor him and his photos. He accompanied our student workshops twice and did a lot of beautiful work while in Havana. It was part of the retrospective currently being exhibited at the Turchin Center on the campus at Appalachian State University. He would be excited to know that we are going to be back in Havana in December and January this year.

Ché gets around-here in Paris

2008-05-07T13:29:00.000-07:00

This young woman was at a protest in Paris shortly after the bombing of Iraq started 5 years ago. French students require very little in the way of a cause to have a demonstration. They are amazingly orderly, the gendarmes are out to maintain calm and the crowd is able to make its point. They were closing a significant portion of the St. Germain de Pres every afternoon during the week in March that I was there. I doubt that would happen these days in the US-close down a major street for an anti-war protest. I have been struck by how often I encounter images of Ché Guevara in other parts of the world than Cuba. He has become a sort of international symbol of protest and revolution. Man people regard him as as butcher, others as as brilliant strategist, and some as a confused young man enamored of his impossible idealism. Whatever, and he may have been all three of these plus much more, no one can deny but what he was an interesting person.

Feria des Artesanas

2008-04-22T18:22:00.000-07:00

Early in the morning one can hear the grinding sound of steel or wooden wheels rolling on the cobblestones. This is the artisans and the craftspeople rolling out their wares to get them to the Feria des Artesanas for the opening of that spectacle. It is held 4-5 days a week, the number of days was decreased as it became a more successful economic enterprise. Here one can purchase surprisingly good local arts and crafts at ridiculously low prices. As with all things involving Cubans and tourists, one can also get totally ripped off. The fair is interesting, colorful, and full of energy. Even if you don't find a deal it is fun. I spoke to one young man who was making small paintings and then selling them for $5 a piece. I asked him if that wasn't a very low price. He spoke perfect English, told me that he was an architect. He was required to work some number of years in return for his education, but then he quite architecture to take up painting. He typically sold 3-4 paintings a day. He was affluent from his art, considering his salary as an architect had been $15/month. This is the failure of the revolution and the system--the totally unrealistic economic situation imposed on the people. I have another friend who sells her photos for $200 a piece. One sale and she is more than six months ahead when compared to her old teachers' salary. These things must change. The people can't be kept in the dark forever. Everybody likes to get some new shoes once in awhile.

Folkloric Dancers

2008-04-20T13:16:00.000-07:00

One of my friends, Maria, is a dancer and a dance instructor. She teaches children and teenagers folk dancing. Most of the dance is African in origin and pertains to her faith, Santeria. She had organized a recital in a house that was being used as a community center in one of the many poor suburbs of Havana. My students and I were invited and we hired a van and went there late one afternoon. It started inside the house, on the second floor, but the crowd grew too large for the room and the dance was moved out into the street. Maria's son Ellington and her jazz loving husband Roberto provided the music by playing a set of bongo drums and thumping on a wooden box-the latter was a great instrument one sat on it and then just beat the side with both hands. The children were enthusiastic and some of them were quite talented. I thought about some of the times I had been to dance recitals with my children in the US. I realized that even under the thumb of an oppressive government people will find a way to not only have fun, but to help their children enjoy a bit of life.

Musicians at Plaza Armas

2008-04-17T17:25:00.001-07:00

One morning I walked up to Plaza Armas. There was some form of ceremony where it seemed police cadets were being recognized. There was a band playing martial music and the cadets were spiffy in their uniforms. I took a few photos and then wandered about the plaza. At the far end of the Plaza, away from the ceremony, sat these two musicians. I struck up a conversation with them and asked if I might take their photograph. They said sure. Everyone was in a good mood, the weather was nice, it was a fine morning, and there were a moderate number of people walking and talking. I took a couple of shots, this is one of them. Then from nowhere that I could see came a small police car. Out leapt two uniformed officers who immediately approached the musicians and accused them of disturbing the ceremony. They were told to stand and handcuffs were produced, I protested and told the cops that I was the culprit. Since I was a gringo tourist, I was not likely to get arrested. The guitar player told me it was OK and to be quiet. The two musicians were then herded into the back seat of the police car and driven away. I don't think I have ever felt as bad and disgusted with myself as I did then. I felt awful. I had innocently caused these men to play their instruments, and the soft music that could not have possibly been heard up near the ceremony was enough to get them arrested. I was later told that they would be let go, but would be "written up." An example of the nearness of the law in all of its unreasonable and very intimidating power of the man on the street in Cuba. I have seen young men who were advertising their mother's kitchen as a place to eat arrested when they approached tourists. I barely escaped arrest for riding in a bici-taxi once. unbeknownst to me, the bicis had been relegated to being cheap transport for Cuban citizens and were not for the tourists. I spent an hour or more being harangued and having my "papers checked." The poor driver was trembling. I had no idea what a terrible position I had put him in--he could give me a ride or be rude to a tourist-he truly had a no win situation. All of this just hassle and intimidate. Enhance the power of the cops and the fear of the common man.

2008-04-16T04:19:00.000-07:00

There are several photographers who operate in front of the Capitolio. They take your picture and then process it inside the big box of their camera. This is a traditional business that dates back to way before the Revolution. As such it is a tourist dependent business. Tourism is the island's major source of income these days. Most of the tourists come from Europe or S. America. The tourism was described for me once as "ideal for the budget-minded tourist." One of the unfortunate aspects of the local economy no doubt related to its paternalistic basis is very poor service. In some restaurants the wait staff will simply stand about, chatting and ignoring their customers. In one totally tourist directed Italian restaurant I ordered fettucini alfredo. Forty five minute later I was told, "The fettucini, it is over. Now, we have spaghetti alfredo." The photographers provide much better service.

Bahia de Cochinas

2008-04-12T06:39:00.000-07:00

This is the famous Bay of Pigs. It was the site of the ill fated invasion of Cuba in April, 1961. There is controversy about the exact politics of both how and why, but either way it was a mess. Ca. 1100 of the "troops" in the invading force were captured and subsequently ransomed free to the cost of $53 million in material and cash. Today the bahia is quite beautiful and peaceful. I found an interesting discussion of the incident on a talk page from Wikipedia. This event, like so much in Cuba's recent history, provokes much discussion and many different opinions. One of the most insightful comments in the discussion I read is that "it may be another fifty years before the history of the incident is truly understood." So much of Cuba's history of the past 100 years is misunderstood, controversial, and conflicted. People are so caught up in the travails of the Castro government that they have forgotten the awful treatment of the Cuban people under Machado and Batista. Unfortunately there is a long trail of abuse, exploitation, and murder over the past century.

Voting

2008-04-09T05:50:00.001-07:00

This is what voting in Havana was like the last time I visited there. Perhaps with the transition in government that has occurred over the past 6 months, real voting will start. In the past the results were always nearly unanimous and certainly maintained the status quo. Now, with a change, even a small shift, there is the chance of real reform. Since it is abundantly clear that the "embargo" has not been successful, perhaps a change in the US official posture might hasten the advent of real freedom. If our goal was freedom for the Cuban people rather than satisfying the understandable anger of a powerful political group, the embargo would be long gone. Encouraging reform by giving tangible support is likely to be more successful than continuing the harshness of a failed policy. Our leaders have persisted in this failed policy for 45 or so years. There is a window of opportunity at present, the US should seize it. There was perhaps a window of opportunity just after the revolution in 1959-1961. It was certainly lost in the fears and anxieties of the Communist threat of the Cold War years. Let's not pass up another chance to help a neighbor.

Gone fishing

2008-04-04T15:46:00.000-07:00

People fish in the Bahia all the time. From sun up until late at night they can be seen casting their lines. They do indeed catch fish, sometimes some rather large ones. It is a pretty sight in the early morning when young men and old alike are trying their luck. I for one would probably not fish there nor would I eat anything that came out of the water of the Bahia de Habana. It is considered one of the ten dirtiest harbors in the world. This is another obvious marker of the inability or unwillingness of the government to enforce any regulations regarding what is dumped into the water. It is also an example of how the infrastructure of the city has deteriorated. It will take years and billions of dollars to make the city right. All those who plan to go back to Cuba and reclaim their property perhaps should give this some serious thought. If our government steps into help them, then I hope they are prepared to take similar steps to help those Native Americans who were similarly dispossessed of their land and property.

2008-03-31T10:12:00.000-07:00

I met this woman in Bauta, a small village about 40 km from Havana. She was asking us for a ride back to Havana. Since space was limited, we had to turn her down. While we were talking she said that she worked in Havana. I asked her what her job was, and she answered, "I am an asker." I did not understand so I asked Roberto to explain it to me. "She stands in the Plaza at the Cathedral and asks people for things," he said. "Oh, you mean she is a beggar?" I answered. "Well, yes, I suppose you could say that," was the answer. I met several other interesting people in Bauta including a local photographer. I thought about it for awhile and realized that there are not near so many beggars on the streets as one encounters in other Latin American Countries. One is constantly hounded in Mexico. In fact, I think they are fewer in Havana than in Washington, DC.

I Love a Parade!

2008-03-29T07:20:00.000-07:00

Parades are a big deal in Havana. It is amazing how the word gets out. Without much fanfare or advertising all of a sudden everyone knows that a parade is happening. And a happening it is. Businesses all close, school is cancelled, and the stores are closed. The parade route invariably follows the broad drive along the Malecon and ends up at the large plaza in front of the tall building that houses the US special Interests Section. There many very loud speeches are given, music blares, and the crowd cheers. All of the parade marchers which may number half a million people or more wave their little paper flags and most have smiles. Parades can bring out happiness almost anywhere. There are no military vehicles or military troops in the parades, it is a parade of the people. Usually timed to make a statement in response to some political development somewhere in the world that pertains to Cuba and to demonstrate that the people support the Cuban government. Even in Cuba people can have fun (or enjoy a day off to lay low and work around the house!)

2008-03-28T07:01:00.000-07:00

This is Pepe. He sits outside the Fototeca keeping the door. The Fototeca is a relatively small place with two galleries where both visiting photographic exhibitions and local photographers' work are exhibited. Located on Plaza Vieja in Habana Vieja, it is part of a collection of galleries on the Plaza. Around the corner is the Casa Marina, a good place to go have a beer and talk. I have had good experiences at the Fototeca having met both Korda and Roberto Salas at various exhibitions. Although small there is a thriving community of photographic artists in Havana. They have struggled to obtain materials with which to do their work. I am hopeful that the relaxation on the ownership and use of electronic devices by Raul's government will allow them to move forward into the digital realm, an area in which they have been very limited.

A note from Pac

2008-03-25T19:45:00.000-07:00

It has been a long time since I posted on this blog. I am glad to be back doing something worthwhile like this; well, it is worthwhile for me. Last year was a very difficult year for me. I have encountered some things I would not wish on anyone, but I am now back and ready to resume life with full vigor. I don't have any new Cuba pictures. I haven't been there since 2005 so I will rely on my older ones for this effort. Our university lost its permit for educational travel to Cuba as did most US universities. I participated in an ECDET meeting in Washington, DC in 2006. It was held in conjunction with Cuba Day which was a big success; nothing was changed, but it did attract attention from many lawmakers. I don't think the travel situation will change until after the election. All the candidates will be in favor of the embargo in an effort to capture the Cuban-American vote. I am cautiously optimistic that in the next administration good sense will prevail and we will do business with Cuba. Certainly the current activities by the Chinese makes the embargo an even more ridiculous thing. It is as Col. Wilkerson once said,"The dumbest foreign policy the US has ever had." But then, one thing that politicians are virtually immune to is accusations of hypocrisy. Maybe if the Cubans would start making tennis shoes or jeans they would be more acceptable.

Ciudad Libertad

2008-03-25T19:36:00.000-07:00

This is a picture of the abandoned area in Liberty City which is situated in Miramar. This was an army base under the Batista regime, the headquarters of the army in fact. It was from here that Batista fled once he realized that his rule was over. It was then converted to a school. Part of the old base is now an art school, another part, the old officers' club is the actual school. It has nice rooms, a pool, and is well painted. It is the school that was often shown on TV during the "Elian Gonzalez crisis." There is a secondary school in Liberty City that is attended by students from throughout latin America. Part of the city is abandoned, part is inhabited by the students. Other than the presence of the young people it is hard to tell much difference between the areas. It will take years to repair the infrastructure in Havana, a very costly undertaking indeed.

2008-03-24T05:30:00.000-07:00

This old fighter plane sits outside the museum at Playa Giron or as many know it "the Bay of Pigs." This battle is viewed with great pride by many cubans and certainly by Castro himself. It was a military, foreign policy, and economic disaster for the United States. There are stories and relics of each of those martyrs who gave their lives at the battle. It is creepy to see the bloody shirt of a teenager, but unfortunately that is the nature of war. Adjacent to this plane there sits the ruins and twisted remains of an American fighter plane shot down in the battle. It was shortly after this ill fated attempt to overthrow Castro and his regime that he decided to align Cuba with the Soviet Union. It is of interest that while there were many Communists involved in the revolution, Castro was not one of them and was resistant to many of their ideas. As the US condemns Castro for his brutality nothing is said about the brutality and oppressive nature of Batista and Machado who were cruel dictators acting as representatives of the US political and moneyed interests. It is of interest who gets to be labeled cruel, evil, and war criminal in these fracases.

Morning in Trinidad

2008-03-23T10:15:00.000-07:00

It is early morning in Trinidad. People are just getting out and about. This town, one of the oldest in the new world, is the place where Christopher Columbus made his second landing in the Caribbean. It is quite pretty and the people are friendly. It is a bit touristy as many buses stop here. Made even more so by its proximity to the coast and two large resort hotels. These handmade baskets are for sale. Hopefully, someone will want one. A little capitalism at work here?

Morning coffee

2008-03-21T06:11:00.000-07:00

These fellows are each getting a small cup of coffee from this private vendor. Many women will set up a small home version of Starbucks and sell coffee, juice, and cookies from their door or window to passers by on the street. This is welcomed by those in the neighborhood who may gather around the window to have their refreshments and chat. Unfortunately not so many Cubans are on their way to work when they stop by. It is a demoralizing thing to awaken in the morning and have no place to be that day. Hopefully that situation is changing slightly under the leadership of Raul.

Caneys y Rafael

2008-03-19T07:43:00.000-07:00

I met these two men on the street in Santiago. They were extremely happy, friendly people as were almost all the citizens of that beautiful city. They were retired from having worked as clowns. They still did occasional birthday parties and things like that, but no longer worked at their jobs on a regular basis. Many people in Cuba are in that fix. It will be very difficult to make an abrupt transition from a society where the government provides at least a minimum subsistence to one where everyone must earn their keep. While many Cubans are anxious to work for themselves (and many already do that), others are very dependent on the paternalism of the government.

2008-03-12T07:00:00.000-07:00

This was made in the Bosque de Habana. A wonderful park adjacent to Vedado. In the vines and foliage of the Bosque it is cool and refreshing. The Almendares River runs through the Bosque. Unfortunately it is polluted and quite dirty. In spit of that, one might see people fishing in the river.

La Luz

2006-09-11T18:58:00.000-07:00

This photo was made in an old building in Havana Vieja. I liked the old run down buildings, the bright light, and the windows and doors that streamed the light through. A series of these photos is on my web site, www.riowatauga-art.com

Babalao with Chicken

2006-08-23T05:35:00.000-07:00

Ernesto, the Babalao at the ceremony, is sacrificing the chicken. There was an array of bowls, fruits, nuts, and bottles of rum set up. Some of these items then had chicken blood sprinkled over them. After this people danced, sang, and the drums beat louder and louder until one or two dancers fell into trances and dropped to the ground-I think from both emotional, spiritual, and physical exhaustion. It was hot, humid, and they had danced non-stop for more than an hour. When we went to the beach and Maria danced in the edge of the ocean she eventually collapsed and was simply floundering in the surf. My old life guard instincts kicked in and I bounded into the surf as if I was once again 19 and back at the beach in South Carolina. It was an easy rescue.

Sacrifice

2006-08-13T08:13:00.000-07:00

Most of the Santeria ceremonies involve a sacrifice, typically a chicken. Here Maria, the person for whom the ceremony was being held, handles the sacrificed chicken. She suffers from Hepatitis C infection, had been losing weight and had visited a babalao who had recommended the sacrifice and ceremony as a means of asking a spirit for help in attaining better health.

2006-08-04T15:42:00.000-07:00

This woman is dancing in time to the chanting of Antonio and the beat of several drums-a bongo and a conga drum that were brought for the ceremony. The rhythm is infectious. Two of the dancers became transfixed by the music and the dancing and went into trances. Maria, one of the two, fell in the surf. My old lifeguard instincts were still present I suppose for I crashed into the surf to the rescue. It was a fascinating experience.

Antonio y Ellagua

2006-07-24T19:09:00.000-07:00

One afternoon Roberto and I were talking. He asked me if I wanted to go to a Santeria ceremony the next day. I asked if the students could go and he said "OK." WE commandeered a van the next morning and drove out toward Cojimar and turned off the road toward the beach. We ended up at a small beach with a Rapido and nothing else. The key thing at the beach was that a freshwater river entered the ocean there. The Babalao had told Roberto and Maria that this was the type of place they should find for the ceremony. Antonio, who has been pictured before, is shown here wearing his tee shirt I had given him a year or two before. It was for an exhibition and the photo on the shirt was made at the Tropicana. Antonio sang, chanted, drank rum and puffed his cigar for several hours non-stop during the ceremony. I don't know how much of this was real, how much for show, but it was a fascinating event.

Hanging Out

2006-07-21T07:40:00.000-07:00

It is a hot Saturday afternoon. All these folks are out in their front yard which sits on Linea. They are joking, drinking rum, and having a good time. All of them live in apartments in the house behind them. The old homes in Vedado and some in Miramar have been divided up into apartments. Note how one apartment has been repainted and another has not. Almost all the old homes not taken over by businesses or rented to embassies and their officials have been sub-divided like this. Some are reasonably well maintained. Others are not. I guess that it is a lot like public housing in most parts of the world.

Three clerks

2006-07-18T05:26:00.000-07:00

These guys who are enjoying their morning cigars were all working in a small shop. There was not much merchandise for sale and one person certainly could have done the job. There are a lot of situations like this throughout Cuba. There is definitely no thought given to efficiency. Labor is cheap, and an effort is made to have everybody "employed." A friend of mine once told me that when he was working in Havana as a press photographer there were two people in the elevator of his hotel at all times. One person asked "What floor?" Then, the other person pressed the button.

Private Food Stand

2006-07-16T09:00:00.000-07:00

This food stand has better offerings than the state owned one. Here the producers sell their products and then they are taxed. Their products are better although far from outstanding. Most of the choice produce goes to the hotels and restaurants that cater to the tourist industry. Also some is exported, most of the pineapple, for instance, goes to Switzerland I have been told. At the house where we generally stay, the owner goes out in the morning and returns later with several bags of good vegetables and fruits. I don't know where he gets it, I don't ask, I just realize that the bolsa negra is alive and well.

State Owned Produce Stand

2006-07-15T06:24:00.000-07:00

In this stand at the produce section of the market are the vendors for the state. The produce comes from state owned and run farms. Hardly anyone shops there. The produce is smaller, more discolored, and is not as fresh as that sold in other stands. As a consequence there are rarely customers shopping. The vendors all seem quite bored and resigned to their situation.

More Market

2006-07-13T07:55:00.000-07:00

Upstairs at the market is the meat department. There are slabs of beef, pork, and various butchered cuts of meat sold here. Nothing is refrigerated. In the back of the meat market is the live section which has chickens, guineas, and other fowl for sale. This is a place where life and death, existence and non-existence, and to some extent the balance among living things comes to its cross roads. There are not many vegetarians in Cuba in my experience, but there is not much to please the palate of a serious meat eater. I find it fairly easy to eat a lot of vegetable-fruit meals, leaving the meat and seafood to others. Needless to say, there is not a pandemic of obesity-childhood or otherwise in Cuba.

Free Market

2006-07-11T09:14:00.000-07:00

One of my favorite things to do while in Havana is to go the Free Market over in Cerro. It is at a big crossroads, full of food vendors and lots of activity. Around the outside are several shops that sell the relics and implements needed for various santeria rites. One sees people there with live chickens and it is assumed that they are headed for sacrifice. Inside the majority of people are happy and are having a good time. I think this girl has a great smile. Prices are ridiculously low until you realize that you as an Anglo are being charged in dollars and the Cubans are paying in pesos, this is a convenient conversion method, but it is hardly correct. I don't complain though, it is not a lot, the fruit is fresh and tasty, and the money helps the people to survive a few more days. One can spend an afternoon there without problem and if you like to make photos of people, then you can spend several days.

Sitting on La Rampa

2006-07-08T06:41:00.000-07:00

Calle 23 is a busy street, it is main street in Vedado. It stretches up from the Malecon past the Habana Libre Hotel heading up in the general direction of the University. It has shops, markets, a couple of dance clubs and a great jazz club along the way. All of the airlines have their offices there and there are several travel agents. My friend Roberto goes by the cell phone office to buy some more time on his phone each time he has spare money. There is always a crowd of people. Many just hang out. Hanging out is a very popular pastime in Havana. In most cities I see people walking from one place to another. Those who are sitting on benches or just standing around are usually identifiable as tourists or retirees. It is different in Havana. Young men will stop you and ask you where you are from. A typical American might question this intrusion or fear they were being hustled. Sometimes you are, especially when the next question is "You want cigars?" At other times you discover the person is just interested, wants to make conversation, ask you something about the US, or tell you about their father who lives in Hialeah or Fort Lauderdale. You realize just how sheltered or out of touch many Cubans are when a bright seeming young man asks you " Where is the weather best, Miami or Detroit?"

America in Cuba

2006-07-04T07:20:00.000-07:00

All about one sees the remnants of the American presence in Cuba. Most of the Cuban people express their strong fondness for Americans. In spite of the official differences between the governments at a street level the people can get along just fine. I think most people would like to see both countries live up to the ideals of the Fourth of July and its representation of freedom. More and more those freedoms are being lost and this trend must stop. Those who treasure freedom must stand up not only against intruders or terrorists, but against over reaching by insulated, out of touch governments. This premise is applicable to both the USA and Cuba.

Plaza in Cienfuegoes

2006-07-01T06:50:00.000-07:00

Another picture of Cienfuegoes. The plaza is full of school kids most afternoons. This man is on his way to work as a musician. All of the buildings surrounding the plaza are fairly well kept and painted mainly soft pastel, tropical colors. It was a bit difficult to find much in the way of good food in Cienfuegoes. There are a few places frequented by the tour buses, but the smaller restaurants and cafes left a lot to be desired.

Local Transportation

2006-06-29T06:32:00.000-07:00

These horse and wagon outfits are very common in many of the towns of Cuba. Here in Ceinfuegoes one finds this arrangement all over the place. People hop on and off, socialize, and all seem perfectly content with the horse drawn wagon as their means of getting about. Needless to say, the gas production exceeds the gas consumption. These vehicles pretty much run on straw and grain. I realize that this is archaic to most of us worldy moderns, but it works and meets the needs of the system. When people don't have big or important jobs, rushing about is much less "important."

CDR in Cienfuegoes

2006-06-25T13:20:00.000-07:00

Cienfuegoes is such a beautiful place it requires color film. Even if like me, you are a total amateur in color, you know you have to do it. The pastels of the buildings are gorgeous. The quaintness of the horse drawn carriages which provide the main form of public transportation add to the charm. They each have a kerosene lantern hanging beneath them so that they can be seen at night. Very much a tourist destination the main drawback are the beggars and scammers. It seems everyone in Cienfuegoes has an angle or a deal for you. I have had business deals proposed by university professors, standard propositions for food, lodging, girls, boys, and cigars. At least when you say "No" most of them leave you alone after that, but it does make it less pleasant. This is hardly a Cuban thing, it occurs throughout out the world, especially the third world and the emerging nations. I have experienced it in Mexico, Puerto Rico, Morocco, and surprisingly in Budapdest. No doubt were I more widely traveled, I would have experienced it elsewhere. None the less, Cienfuegoes is a beautiful city.

Pot Calls Kettle Black!

2006-06-22T05:51:00.000-07:00

A school in Miami has taken a book about Cuba from its library at the request of several parents. Apparently the book paints a to favorable picture of a child's life in Cuba and this is against the perception of what Castro has visited upon those people and their island home. No matter how one spins this it is censorship, and it is political censorship, and it is a really dumb thing to do. If one is trying to describe how thought and freedom are suppressed, you hardly help your cause by suppressing a book that doesn't fit your preconvceived notions. One of the first small steps toward fascism is trying to control the flow of information and ideas to the people. It is important to let people, including children, find the truth by themselves. Certainly parents and teachers must help, but practicing censorship is just an object lesson in totalitarianism, The photo above is not a good photo, but it does show the book stalls in Plaza Armas. The book sellers are there several days a week. Most of the books are communist era political treatises and /or history books that recount previous communist glories. Occasionally one finds a book by Marti, a book of poems by N. Guillen, an old Hemingway novel or something like that. These books show the vestiges of control that existed and to some extent still exists in Cuba. Unfortunately, the same thing is sprouting like Kudzu in the United States.

Playing in the Band

2006-06-20T05:53:00.000-07:00

In this bar on Obispo Street, Lluvia del Oro, or something like that, I encountered this local band. They were all serious music students at the University, several were music teachers on the side, and they really enjoyed playing together. As almost all of these sorts of places open up to the street, the music spills out into the streets at all hours of the day and night, and lends a festive atmsophere. It is always interesting to take a walk in a city in the afternoon and hear someone practicing their music. It seems that the music, unstructured as it might be, wafts freely into the street as a benefit of just being there. More than once , especially in Havana, I have stopped and sat on a wall, the curb, on in an open air café just to listen to someone play and practice their horn or clarinet. The mystery of not knowing exactly who it is and from where it comes, makes it even more fun to do this.

Proud Father

2006-06-17T06:29:00.000-07:00

This man was really proud of his daughter. They had a small business doing a little bit of photography for the neighborhood folks. Both were interested in my camera and wanted to show me some of their work. They seemed to enjoy talking photography, even to a stranger. I must confess that I am rarely treated as a "stranger" while in Havana. Most people have questions about the US, about life there, and it seems they all have a cousin or sibling who lives there. On the Father's Day that I was there a festive atmosphere prevailed as I walked about that afternoon. Lots of music, food being prepared, another important day to celebrate--being happy was the order of the day.

Happy Father's Day

2006-06-15T05:53:00.000-07:00

I was in Havana three years ago for Father's Day. The family where I was staying had a party for me and their father. Each of us got a bottle of good rum, a poem, and a song sung by the children. It was a terrific event. I encountered this lady with her sign on the street several blocks away. Holidays and events like we had are a big part of Cuban life. A poem, a special dessert, children singing a song--these are the things that add real soul to life, the Cubans have that in abundance.

Che lives!

2006-06-13T05:34:00.000-07:00

This is not a Cuba photo. I took it in Paris several years ago at a parade on the St. Germain de Pres in protest of the bombing of Baghdad. Since then I have photographed people wearing Che tee shirts in all sorts of places from the southeastern US to downtown Budapest. I put it up today to mark the cutting of the power to the US Special Interests Section in Havana. They have recently been broadcasting propaganda and flashing lighted signs with messages that are critical of the government, so the governement simply cut the flow of electricity. The US Special Interests Section is now running on generator power. I think this is symbolic of the embargo. It is a generally bad idea that is losing power as time progresses and it is simply a matter of time. Waiting on Fidel to die will hardly be considered a victory no matter how much spin is applied.

Bosque de Habana

2006-06-11T08:54:00.000-07:00

This forested area along the bank of the Almendares river is a gorgeous park. There are large tropical trees, beautiful plants and ferns, and the sound of the river flowing to the sea. As one walks through the park the remnants of Santeria ceremonies and animal sacrifices are encountered. I don't think I would want to be in the park after dark, but in the daytime it is beautiful. Unfortunately it suffers the fate of many nice things in Cuba-no maintenance. It is littered, unclean, and has virtually no facilities for the people. I have missed my annual trip to Cuba this year. First time in 6 years I haven't been there for at least a couple of weeks. When I reflect on how much I miss it, I can't imagine the effect having left Cuba and friends behind would have on oneself. It must be a profoundly deep and painful thing to experience.

Service Station-La Rampa y Malecon

2006-06-08T06:39:00.000-07:00

This service station is at the corner where La Rampa or 23rd Street ends at the Malecon. This area is jammed most nights with young people looking for something to do, somewhere to go, and filled with the ennui of a hot summer night and not much to look forward to. I grew up at the beach and I used to hang out at night around the dance pads and juke boxes adjacent to the sand dunes of South Carolina's coast. Like the Cuban youth we danced, drank beer, and flirted with the girls. Most of us were looking forward to finishing college and having promising careers or jobs. It was a hopeful time, there is little of that in the crowd at the corner of La Rampa and the Malecon most nights.

Camello

2006-06-06T06:27:00.000-07:00

These are big hump backed buses pulled by large truck-tractors. The entire rig resembles a camel's back hence the name, camello. They are always jammed full of passengers. Fortunately most of the people are used to lines and crowded conditions, so everyone gets along. According to a friend of mine, if you ride it far enough, you will steal your own stuff back. It only costs a couple of pesos to ride. In the country side, one doesn't encounter buses, you are more apt to see carts pulled by horses, trucks, or wagons towed by old farm tractors. Transportation is one of the larger problems in the country it seems. There is not enough fuel, and there are not enough functional vehicles.

Scooter

2006-05-26T04:56:00.000-07:00

Throughout the world the desire of kids to play is overwhelming. They are resourceful, creative, andf will work very hard to make a toy or something to play with. I have helped Cuban boys wrap tape into a ball so that they can then play stickball in the street. These guys are even more inventive and mechanically talented. They are building their own "blade". It is made from scraps of lumber they have found and old roller skate parts. The typical child in Cuba is certainly not spoiled by excess nor do they grow up as part of a consumer society. They do like to play, they play outside in the sun and heat, and they are resourceful in creating their playthings. I was fascinated by the number of games and the hours spent by the boys in the neighborhood where I stayed in Havana when I brought them a simple rubber ball to play with-it was amazing how thrilled they were.

Tropicana, 2000

2006-05-06T09:53:00.000-07:00

This was a beautiful night-warm, slight breeze, not too humid. We went to the Tropicana and this picture of the dancers in the smoke was probably more luck than anything else. The Tropicana is probably the one single constant that has existed in Havana from back in the 1940s until the present. While the cost of admission is well beyond the reach of most Cubans, there are always plenty of visitors and upper class Cubans who are present to cheer on the dancers and musicians.

Jinetera with tattoo

2006-04-20T17:55:00.000-07:00

This young woman with several of here friends sat down at my table at Casa Marina in H. Vieja one hot afternoon. I don't think they saw me as a prospect for anythng more than a cool drink. I obligingly sprang for a Fanta orange for all three of them. They enjoyed playing with my camera. I told them they must pose for pictures in return for the orange soda. This gal was very pround of the sunburst tattooed around her belly button. All of them were clean, nice, and reasonably well educated. Having fun is as much of these girls agenda as is being a working prostitute. For many the sex scene in Havana is more like the singles bar scene in the states than the street hooker scene that occurs in US cities.

Smoke on the Stairs

2006-04-18T08:41:00.000-07:00

Many of the buildings of Havana Vieja have dark, somewhat foreboding stairs wells just inside their doors. Often they are dark near the street, but rise up toward light coming in from open windows or courtyards on the second level. Many people spend much of their social life in these dark, cool stair wells. It is a chance to remain cool, visit neighbors, and let children play together on the ground level. Here, Yunieski has stopped to relax with a smoke before heading back out to the hot, sunshine of the street.

Woman on Stairs

2006-04-12T13:04:00.000-07:00

I made a series of these sort of pictures in 2004 while in Cuba. I obtained the use of several very old, decrepit buildings in Habana Vieja, hired several models, and had an excellent assistant. I like the beauty suggested by this woman in the midst of the old surroundings. It sort of represents an existential view that life is pretty much what you make of it and no one really deserves more than a chance to try to make something out of it.

Ancon Beach

2006-04-11T07:21:00.000-07:00

This cabana is the bar on the beach at the Ancon Hotel near Trinidad. The ocean is warm, the beach is nice, and the hotel is fairly nice by Cuban standards. Both the Ancon and the Costa Sur Hotels were constructed during the Soviet days and subsequently renovated. Beach vacations were used to reward workers. They certainly are not as luxurious as the hotels at Varadero, but do provide a nice and economical beach trip. Since many of the tourists in Cuba are sort of the budget minded European or South American tourists, these beaches are popular during the main season.

Shave and a Hair Cut, 2 Pesos

2006-04-04T19:09:00.000-07:00

There are many old traditional barber shops in Havana. They are meeting places, parlors for conversation, and dominos just like they are in the USA. A lot of sports and a little bit of politics get discussed as well. Many of those discussions get too animated and loud for a barber shop. Discussing things like that in close proximity to straight razors is not a particularly good idea. Most are very clean. The barbers wear clean starched smocks, and it is a genuinely professional atmosphere. One of the more humane and meaningful things about the neighborhood societies that exist throughout the city.

2006-04-03T07:55:00.000-07:00

This gentleman lives across the street from where we usually stay in Havana. He sells old currency, post cards, and a few old magazines. He is sort of the neighborhood watch guy I suppose. He is always in his doorway, behind a little table upon which he spreads his merchandise, and is quite friendly. Many people have little streetside businesses like this. Some refill lighters with insecticides using the flammable properties of the propellant. Others sell coffee or juice, some sell cookies, some repair clothes or shoes. Really just about anything to eke out a little more money to put toward survival.

Caneys and Rafael

2006-04-02T12:15:00.000-07:00

I met these two guys in Santiago. They told me that they were both "clowns". They had retired from a circus and now worked only at birthday parties and affairs like that, held mainly for children. I had never encountered a circus in Cuba and since I still haven't, so I don't know if they were joshing me or not. Both were extremely affable and more than willing to have me make some photos of them. Circus or not, it was fun to meet and photograph them and made for a good day.

Pescadoros

2006-03-30T11:28:00.000-08:00

I am not sure if that is really a word, but it is an apt description of these fellows who go "deep-sea fishing" spending the night at sea in hopes of a good catch. They have crafted rafts from large Styrofoam containers and old lumber. These are powered by legs and swim fins of the fishermen. They typically leave and return with the tide, almost all staying out 18-30 hours. They carry a bottle of rum, some food, water, and a big hat to protect them from the sun. Although this seems like a dangerous profession to me, those I have talked with are happy and they enjoy their work. All hope to make a good catch of good eating, tasty fish that will be sold to the better restaurants. This another of the fascinating ways the Cubans have adapted to their lives and hardships.

Pneumatico

2006-03-28T09:43:00.000-08:00

I have been away for the past week. This photo, titled "Pneumatico," shows a young fisherman, his fishing vessel (the large inner tube), and his girl friend who is welcoming him back from his day at sea fishing. This is a common sight. One can stand at the point where the ocean and the Bahia meet and watch the young men in their inner tubes with swim fins to propel them head out toward the horizon for a day's fishing. They usually have a good catch for these are productive fishing waters. Some will go in the afternoon and remain out at sea overnight which is a cooler way to go fishing.

Jaguey

2006-03-19T14:30:00.000-08:00

These beautiful trees are all about in Havana. This one is in the park along Avenida Cinco in Miramar. That is a nice place to walk. Many nice buildings are there and a lot of the middle and upper middle class Cubans have houses in this area. It is also the embassy areas and some homes have been taken over as government agencies and offices. The roots of the Jaguey trees grow up in the air so that the tree rests upon its roots way up above the ground. I always ask my students to figure out how they plant these trees that require above ground roots. I am not sure I know, either.

Along the Malecon

2006-03-15T06:51:00.000-08:00

Probably the major attraction in Havana is the Malecon. This broad boulevard sweeps along the sea wall. The water and foam from breaking waves blows and sometimes flows over the wall. People fish along there, young folks hang out at night and party, families walk along in the afternoon, and often one sees some person standing looking at the sea. I wonder at them, are they looking at the sea or are they looking at Florida and their friends and family who are there?

Print Gallery

2006-03-11T06:53:00.000-08:00

This attractive woman was the gallery manager at the graphics workshop immediately adjacent to the Catederal. In this workshop many printmakers work. Some are students. There is a gallery upstairs where prints are sold. One can purchase original art in this gallery for quite low prices. It is interesting to walk through the large area where the artists are at work and talk to them about what they are doing. These sorts of activities abound in Havana which in many regards is no different from other medium to large cities.

Cross

2006-03-09T14:36:00.000-08:00

Sometimes the old lumber used to board up the falling in buildings makes unusual shapes. I thought this made a perfect cross. This building was along the malecon. There many buildings are being restored, even if the pace is quite slow. Most of the buildings along there show the wear and tear associated with being on the seafront and exposed to the tropical storms that come each summer and fall.

Mercado

2006-03-07T06:05:00.000-08:00

Another photo from the market. This attractive young woman is doing a brisk business in her vegetables and fruit. Most people are happy to smile and let you make their picture. I always spend at least one afternoon in this market when I visit. It is always a hotbed of humanity-the laughter, music, smells, chatter of conversation, and the happiness that pervades is uplifting. I received an email last night. One of my friends, Ramon, just received a national award. Ramon was awarded the National Prize "Reason For Being" by the Alejo Carpentier Foundation for the book "Dictionary of Cuban Photography". Congratulations to him, he is as tireless intellectual who is a genuine polymath.

Eat mor' chikn

2006-03-06T12:51:00.000-08:00

This chicken was ruling the roost one day in the large market, the "Free Market" at Quatro Caminos in Cerro. That is a terrific place to visit. It is full of people, food, all sorts of vegetables and fruit. Upstairs is the meat market which is sort of bloody for vegetarians to visit. There are lots of friendly people there. Things may be difficult in Cuba, but the people do seem to be able to stay friendly, helpful, and open. Outside the street is busy, nearby are several shops that sell trinkets and other paraphernalia for Santeria practitioners. This is not much of a tourist area so there are few guys on the street selling cigars, etc.

80-60-40

2006-03-03T08:05:00.000-08:00

These three gentlemen were sitting out on the curb in the small fishing village just outside Havana that is named Baracoa, not to be confused with the more famous Baracoa on the eastern tip of the country. This was a quaint village with many people lingering about, not many seemed to have jobs to go to. Interestingly these three represent three generations of the same family-grandfather, father, and son. This sort of multi-generational living and socializing arrangement is very common. In almost all homes one encounters at least three generations living together in apparent harmony. That is a nice thing.

Rosie

2006-03-02T06:33:00.000-08:00

This is Rosie. She was across the street from the little boy below. She was much more animated, drinking her milk, and playing with this old bent piece of metal tubing. I met her Mom and her Dad. I took several pictures, and dropped by a few days later with some soap, Bic pens, pads, and a few Bic lighters. Rosie is more like the majority of the young kids, they do get their rations, but there is still a chronic shortage of food. I know some Moms who nurse their toddlers, in their minds it is more efficient for the mother to eat and the child to nurse. This seems to defy the law of conservation of matter and energy in my view, but I admit, I can see the logic in their thinking.

Soy Cuba

2006-03-01T13:02:00.000-08:00

This poor little fellow was in the street one afternoon in Habana Vieja. He was just standing there as a couple of other kids played. They were much more energetic. This child has a swollen belly, swollen ankles and is in the early stages of malnutrition. I suspect some one else is getting his ration of milk and meat. I realized that in spite of universal access to various services, you can't make all the people responsible and caring, no matter what you do. Unfortunately many people go to bed hungry in Cuba each night. I have had many people-Cubans and otherwise-argue with me on this point.
Again, an issue where the predominant shade is gray-not black or white.

Old door

2006-02-28T07:20:00.000-08:00

This old door with all the grafitti appealed to me. All the boys'and girls'names made me want to call it "El Puerto de l'amore." But, I wasn't sure of the Spanish, so I passed on that. I realized this morning that I had been lax in posting pictures, so I am cranked back up. I have been busy upgrading my web site, so check that out if time permits.

Che Tees

2006-02-25T09:31:00.000-08:00

Che tee shirts are encountered the world over. There are many images of him all over Cuba. Clearly he and Mao are the two most famous revolutionaries in recent history. Che was made a martyr, probably intentionally, and has proved more useful to the revolution dead than he was alive. An intellectual, a hardcore revolutionary, a husband and father, he had no qualms about killing those who stood in the way of the revolutionary movement. It is unusual to see young Cubans wearing Che tee shirts. They do turn up at parades and rallies, but that is about it. Most of the tees are on sale to tourists. It is hilarious to see older bulky tourists in their Che Guevara berets.

Chapel in Bauta

2006-02-24T06:42:00.000-08:00

This lovely small chapel was being cleaned by these two ladies. I wanted to take their picture, but they insisted that they must finish, put up their mops and buckets before any photos were made. There was a very nice replica of a ship, perhaps Noah's Ark, in the vestibule of the chapel. There are churches and chapels throughout Cuba. There are at least two synagogues in Havana. I have been to church (Episcopal) in Havana, there were perhaps 300-350 people there, no one seemed the least bit intimidated or nervous. All of the rumors about the suppression of the church and possession of bibles or the persecution of church going people is just not the case. It might have been years ago, but certainly since the visit of Pope John in 1998 things have changed.

Checking the news in Vinales

2006-02-23T08:17:00.000-08:00

The morning paper is dutifully read, and it is one of the ways of communicating the latest antics of the government to the people. The main paper, Granma, named for the boat that brought the revolutionaries back from Mexico, is the leading goverment journal. It is typically about eight pages, costs fifty cents for tourists and a couple of pesos to the local people. These fellows are spending a lazy, hot summer afternoon, hanging out and reading the paper. Hanging out seems to be one of the major pastimes and avocations amongst the people.

A Song for La Caridad del Cobre

2006-02-22T06:51:00.000-08:00

The white girls lift their heads like trees
The black girls go
Reflected like flamingoes in the street.

The white girls sing as shrill as water,
The black girls talk as quiet as clay.

The white girls open their arms like clouds,
The black girls close their eyes like wings:
Angels bow down like bells,
Angels look up like toys.

Because the heavenly stars
Stand in a ring:
And all the pieces of the mosaic, earth,
Get up and fly away like birds.
------The Seven Storey Mountain, Thomas Merton, 1948

Millenium

2006-02-20T06:55:00.000-08:00

I made this photo in the year 2000. I liked the name of the store. This was a major store in a major shopping area. There were what had once been nice shops and boutiques along the street. They were all now empty and closed, or barely open as peso stores. Over the past five years, the area has made a slight come back as more tourist hotels have opened nearby, and there are actually a few shoppers. The department store remains closed and in disrepair. It is not unreasonable that this has happened. Most of the elites and the upper middle class Cubans departed early in the history of the revolution. As the people from the country side moved into the city, they had to learn how to finction in the city. By the time they were educated and ready for assimilation into society, they had been indoctrinated into the great middling effect of revolutionary thinking. The 1900s were in fact a final century for a way of life in Cuba. Things have changed for the better and the worse, but they will never return to the way they were in the last mid-century.

America

2006-02-19T19:33:00.000-08:00

Made this photo one Saturday Morning over in Cerro. Doesn't mean anything, but it is one of my favorite photos. I just like it a lot. I don't think every photo has to have a meaning, it can just be a nice image or an appealing image. This works for me.

Morning Traffic in Trinidad

2006-02-18T06:55:00.000-08:00

Trinidad hums in the morning. People are out on the street walking, visiting, having their coffee. There are a lot of these sidecar/motor cycles in use. They were imported by the Russians and many remain functional, especially out in the country side. This city has had a fair amount of restoration, the entire place having been declared a"World Heritage Center". It is friendly, almost too much so. The advent of tourists coming by the bus loads has promoted the growth of jineteros, hustlers, who offer lodging, meals, cigars, rum, and other delights to the tourist. The jineteros are mainly middle men, or agents, rarely is there any vilient crime. There is a growing amount of petty crime- purses, cameras, small handbags and backpacks being snatched-as there is in every tourist area in the world, third or otherwise.

Macheteros

2006-02-17T10:24:00.000-08:00

The term "companero" is generally regarded much like "comrade" in the soviet era. These guys are really macheteros. They are getting the sugar cane they have cut weighed. It is mindboggling to see the old antiquated equipment and ox drawn wagons that are still being used in the small sugar industry that persists in Cuba. This timeless scene was photographed on the road to Viñales. This is hot, back breaking manual labor that only a few still perform. The zafra or sugar harvest has been the topic of both books and movies. The last time I was at Centrale Australia, the sugar refinery at the turn from the main highway toward Playa Giron, the were dismantling the large plant. I tried to take some pictures, but was chased away by a couple of security guards. When asked why I couldn't make some photos, they answered "It's part of the economy, top secret." I accepted that as part of the natural Cuban paranoia. It never occurred to me that they might have WMDs hidden in there.

Bahia Habana

2006-02-16T06:22:00.000-08:00

In the early morning it is pleasant to walk along the Bahia Habaña enjoying the fresh, cool air. The only people out early are the fishermen. There are plenty of fish to be caught, but I would not eat them. In spite of its beauty, the bahia is one of the ten dirtiest bays in the world. The little wooden fishing boats bob along the edge, they are all quite colorful and create a quaint scene. Across the street and a small park, the artists and craftspeople are setting up their booths for another day of the Feria des Artisanas. There is a gentle hubbub of conversation, things being hammered together, and people showing up for another day. Some fish, some sell their wares, some just hang out.

Produce stand

2006-02-13T08:41:00.000-08:00

When the average Cuban awakens in the morning, there are three problems to be faced . These are breakfast, lunch, and supper. There is definitley no epidemic of obesity on the island. This photo is of a produce stand, a government owned and run business that has something different each day over the week. People queue up there each day until it is sold out. Early each morning a truck comes from who knows where and unloads its cargo. The sound of this attracts the people in the neighborhood who roll out to get their daily ration of mangoes, potatos, yucca, grain or whatever is there that day. There is rarely enought to go around, so being there early is a good move. The tourist hotels and restaurants get the better quality food and have enough to provide excellent meals for their guests. At the house where I stay, the propietor leaves in the morning and returns several hours later with several sacks full of food. I don't ask whwere it comes from. It is good.

In Trinidad one morning

2006-02-11T14:57:00.000-08:00

I was out for a walk early one morning. I encountered lots of people who were in their windows so to speak. They were surveying the morning scene, talking to whomever might pass by. I liked this picture of the man behind his bars, being sort of caged in similar to his pet bird. Birds in cages are favorite pets in Trinidad. One sometimes sees them being carried over to a neighbors so the owners can go to work, sometimes people will carry them to work rather than leave them at home. Trinidad is a friendly place, very beautiful, and has a nice beach close by.

Front Porch II

2006-02-10T07:03:00.000-08:00

Some front porches are more elegant like this one on Linea up in Vedado. This lady occupies the front apartment. This lovely old mansion which at one time likely had more servants than owners has been subdivided into multiple apartments. These apartments were then rented for nominal sums to "the people". After paying rent for 7 years, the house becomes yours. Most of the stately old homes are in terrible disrepair, some are crumbling, others have been reasonably well kept. Like anywhere, it depends on the occupants. Most of the apartments are nicer than the bohios and frame houses one encounters in the countryside. Most of these homes were the property of those displaced by the revolution.

Front Porch

2006-02-09T07:02:00.000-08:00

For many families, the front porch is really just the threshhold to their front door, or maybe simply the curb on the street. Children play, mothers and grandmothers visit, hang out, and spend their time in the doorways. As seen here another tradition is that multiple generations all live together, it is typically three, occasionally four generations, in a house or apartment. I have noticed that it seems here in the US that people are much closer in the more traditional ethnic neighborhoods. In progressive generations as they move to more diversified and upscale areas be it in the burbs or in the cities, the closeness and the family ties lessen. I am not at all sure that that is a good thing. Maybe it takes some hardship to bring people closer together.

Coconut Palms

2006-02-07T07:16:00.000-08:00

This is a palladium print of palm trees out in the country side near Cienfuegoes. These are coconut palms, not the stately and more beautiful Royal Palms. There is a lot of open land in Cuba, and many undeveloped areas remain in their natural state. There are also many areas that are returning to the state of being un-used. This can be seen especially in the Valle de Indigenes where sugar production has declined to almost nothing. In spite of this, the tropical landscape is gorgeous and inviting.

CocoTaxi

2006-02-06T08:55:00.000-08:00

These are the best form of transportation in Havana. The drivers are all young, personable, and atractive. Unless there is a driving rain it is comfortable in the shell sitting back and taking in the passing view. Several times during each workshop trip, we would call for 4 or 5 of these contraptions to take us to our destination. All the students enjoyed the ride. The CocoTaxis are intended for the tourists as compared with the bicitaxis which are pretty much a Cuban designated means of transport. Great fun!

53 Buick

2006-02-05T10:49:00.000-08:00

The old automobiles add to the "frozen in time" feeling of being in Cuba. The government has definitely accomplished the difficult feat of making time stand still. In the past few years many of the old cars were confiscated and turned into taxis so that tourists could enjoy their ride in a "classic." This was to the detriment of the owners of the old cars who once under the "taxi particulars" system owned their cars, could haul people, and charge for it. Everytime someone figures out a new scheme to make a little money the government comes along and imposes heavy taxes, takes over the service or business, or simply removes that particular occuaption from the list of things approved for people to participate in and develop their own business.

More dominos

2006-02-03T06:25:00.000-08:00

These are the opposition to the photo posted below. This was a highly animated game. It is decidedly different from the chess matches that also are prevalent in the parks, streets, and outside the doors of homes. It is abundantly clear that there is not a lot of work going on in many of these neighborhoods. I guess that is the lot of many third world countries. This way of passing time is not the province of old men, it involves young ones as well. Bound to be unsatisfying to young, educated men who simply can't find a job. Most of them are anxious to talk about life in the US and they are interested in learning about places other than Miami. Questions like "can you get a better job in Detroit than in Miami?" are common.

Bicitaxi outside CDR

2006-02-02T07:07:00.000-08:00

The bicitaxi is a bicycle-rickshaw sort of contraption that is the cheapest people hauler in Havana. They have been pretty much relegated to transportation for locals in the peso economy. The past two times I have ridden in a bicitaxi, we have been stopped by the police and the driver was issued a citation for hauling tourists. The goal is to push the tourists into a more expensive form of transport. This is one of the oft cited "CDRs". Nico Lopez was a printer, a black man, who was a revolutionary. This photo was made from the window in my room across the street. I never saw anything going on in the CDR except frequent games of dominos. It was interesting that once we had a group of students living in the house, a policeman was at each end of our block for the first week we were there. They were quite helpful with directions and seemed to enjoy talking to the female students. Since all were well behaved young people, there were no problems.

Royal Palms at Capitolio

2006-02-01T05:51:00.000-08:00

Royal Palms abound in Cuba. They are planted all over the grounds of the Capitolio where this photo was made. I like to go there and pick a spot and just stay in that one place and let the photos come to me. There is always lots of action in this part of Havana. This is where the major avenues and what were once some of the most glorious shopping districts in North America all came together as a bustling crossroads. This is where many of the grand old hotels are. Some have been restored, others are just sad shells of past glory. Either way there are lots of people out and about, laughter and shouts , music, auto horns, and the bells of the bicitaxis all fill the air. Several of the cigar factories are nearby, it's still a happening place.

Old Men

2006-01-31T19:17:00.000-08:00

Old revolutionaries still hang around in Cuba. This was in the entrance to a boxing ring and training facility in Old Havana. I liked the entire scene-the light, the bust of Marti, and the old man asleep in his chair. I find the concept of revolution intriguing. All of us pass through a stage of revolt against authority. The USA would not exist if the early Patriots had not felt the urge to revolt against the heavy handed tactics of King George. I think it is what one does with the spoils of revolution that makes the real difference. The sudden changes and the threats of destroying so many people were a huge tactical error for the Castro regime after their successful revolution I think. The country was left with as group of amateurs to run it. It is no wonder the economy has failed. An allergist as Minister of Finance? Get real. (With apologies to some very smart allergists whom I know.)

"372"

2006-01-30T06:28:00.000-08:00

I made this photo walking around in Cerro one Saturday morning several years ago. All three kids were playing in the street. I started talking to them, they were not afraid of me, but they were a bit put off by a camera on a tripod. I have found that in Cuba taking pictures is as an excellent way to get to know folks. Most have no objection, many even like to have pictures made, especially if you can give them one. I use a polaroid back to do this. Occasionally someone will want to be paid. I understand this, but don't do it. This sort of thing has become more widespread in the past few years as the number of tourists has increased. I have on occasion hired models and of course l paid them for their time and effort. In this photo, the old car is more of a prop than the subject. I like that, although I have seen photos of the old cars that were beautiful "car pictures."

Dominos

2006-01-29T06:10:00.000-08:00

One hot June afternoon, I went to Cayo Granma. This small island is in the bay just out from Santiago. Under the shade of a large tree, an intense domino match was being played. I watched the games for about an hour. After a while I had just sort of blended in to the group. When I began to take a few pictures this man turned to stare. Soon the intensity of the game resumed and I clicked away with all the players oblivious to me and my camera. One can find dominos being played everywhere. Each village, on the sidewalks in the towns and cities, in parks, and in vacant lots. And, it's not the game of old men. Once you start to think that, you come upon a young person playing ferociously.

Construction

2006-01-28T06:32:00.000-08:00

These fellows are working in Havana Vieja restoring a building. Many buildings have been restored and are used as shops, museums, galleries, and restaurants. The work proceeds slowly as does most everything. One can see the same slow transformation occurring in many of the older buildings along the Malecon. The entire city is so decrepit and the infrastructure so run down it will take millions of dollars and years to restore it to its former condition when Havana was generally considered one of the most beautiful cities in the world.

Tamara

2006-01-27T07:33:00.000-08:00

Tamara is a spectacular vibraphone player. She is in her early twenties and is extraordinarily accomplished. She and a group of young musicians were playing with a jazz trio of elderly musicians one night at La Zorro y El Cuervo in Vedado. This is a traditional jazz cellar frequented by local musicians and music lovers. The mix of ages and skills was wonderful. One could almost see the torch being passed from one generation to the next. The Cuban people are by their nature attracted to the arts. It provides some respite from the difficulties of day to day life and is just plain fun for all.

Fishing

2006-01-26T06:56:00.000-08:00

These men are headed out to sea on a fishing trip. They will go out this afternoon, fish all night and then head back sometime tomorrow. These rafts are fashioned from styrofoam and wood packing cases. The fish will be sold if they have a decent catch. This seems like a very dangerous way to scratch out a living, but many Cubans are very resourceful when it comes to rafts. Large inner tubes from truck tires ae also used. The boys and men who do this are called "pneumaticos."

Tropicana

2006-01-25T06:29:00.000-08:00

One definite connection with the past is the Tropicana night club. It is a wonderful show, a real extravaganza. The music is excellent and the dancers are superb. The night I went the crowd included tourists and Cubans. The night was beautiful, the tropical evening air refreshing. I recognize that the average Cuban today certainly can't afford the Tropicana, but then I can't afford tickets to The Producers on B'way either. Our second row Tropicana tickets were $75 each, and that included a bottle of rum, some Tropicola, and ice to sip during the show and a meal served during the intermission. Not a bad deal at all.

Machetero in Vinales

2006-01-24T06:51:00.000-08:00

This machetero was photographed at his home in the Viñales Valley. This has to be one of the most beautiful places in this hemisphere. The Royal Palms grow wild everywhere, the rolling hills studded with mogotes (huge rock formations) and the luxurious valleys are virtually unspoiled by development. This man was quite proud. He had his machete, his boots and hat-all sort of the uniform of the machetero. Unfortunately the sugar production has failed. Most of ingenios, refineries, are closed down, the machinery is rusting, and only a few are operational. Maintenance of the infrastructure has been a low priority of the revolutionary government and all pay the price for this neglect.

Mas Pan

2006-01-23T06:35:00.000-08:00

This image captures a lot of what life is like for many Cubans. A totally bored person, keeping a shop that has one stale loaf of bread. There are so many reasons for this situation that it almost defies understanding. For many there is only one reason-Fidel Castro. For others, there is the embargo (yet we are shipping and selling wheat to Cuba.) The tourism is also a reason-most of the decent foodstuff is earmarked for the fancier hotels where the average Cuban can't afford to go. The bottom line, as stated earlier, is that the economy has failed and it benefits those in power to keep the population impoverished and struggling. It has failed just as the economies of Eastern Europe and the USSR failed. Communism is not a workable system unless it is imposed by force.

Derrumbe!

2006-01-22T06:45:00.000-08:00

Derrumbé! Then there is a crash. Another building has collapsed. The older buildings in many of Cuba's cities are decaying as a consequence of the harsh tropical weather and lack of maintenance. There are vacant lots sprouting up all around. In Habana Vieja there is construction. There is some money from the UN, that area having been named a "World Heritage Site." The work moves slowly due to lack of materials and a lack of effort. The unfortunate truth is that most workers make less in a month, than a construction worker makes in a single day in the US. Once Cuba opens up it will take considerable time and money to restore it to the once vibrant country it was.

2006-01-21T07:23:00.000-08:00

Unfortunately there are no "shade trees" in Havana under which to work on your car. Instead, one sees guys working on the streetside. They put the car up on blocks, work under it, work on the engine, drop out the transmission, just about any major thing one can imagine gets done curbside. Parts are rare and expensive. Each time I go, I get requests for spark plugs, various wires, brake pads, replacement light bulbs and that sort of thing. I usually throw in a pair or two of fuzzy dice and some Nascar caps which are popular. Smart people meeting most of their challlenges. PS_The Cuban baseball team got the visa to play in the international baseball tournament, common sense prevailed! Hopefully that's a start.

2006-01-19T13:32:00.000-08:00

My friend, Robert, and his wife, Maria, are practitioners of Santeria. Roberto is aspiring to become a babalao and Maria teaches Afro-Cuban Folkloric dancing. The dance class is drawn from their neighborhood. One afternoon the group had a recital for us. All ages of kids, mainly young girls, danced. Ellington, their son, and one of his buddies banged on conga and bongo drums. Roberto played the suitcase, it had a nice bass sound. This little girl danced her heart out and her legs off in the role of Ellagua, a spirited orisha in the legends of Santeria. So many people came to the small community center we went out to the street and blocked it off. A policeman came and went down to the corner to deflect any traffic rather than close us down. Among the people there is little oppression, if you deal with the government, that's a totally different story.